How to: Koni Shock/Spring Installation

This Suspension manual may help: DA Suspension

After-market shock absorbers can be somewhat difficult to find for the DA integra, at least as a direct replacement. Most shock absorbers designed to fit early 90's civics can be modified to fit, however you may need to find Civic front forks or other parts. For more information about hybriding DA suspension visit this site.

Koni make excellent shocks for most makes and models, including the DA integra. I decided on the 8041 series Koni sport (yellows) which are damper adjustable via a knob on the top; and height adjustable via circlips on the shock body. Koni also make Yellow versions which are adjustable by rotating the shock itself, and red models which are not adjustable and give a relatively stock ride.

What you get

Front

1) 4 lock nuts, 2 for each shock

2) 4 washers, 2 for each shock

3) 2 plastic washers to go over the shock to prevent the bump stop sucking oil and ruining the shock, the washer allow air to move through.

4) 2 metal collars to replace the ones you removed, these are larger diameter so as to fit over the larger shock.

5) 2 washers to go at the top, the lock nuts tighten over this.

6) Adjusting instructions

7) Perches

8) Circlip rings to keep the circlips on.

9) Adjustment knob

 

Rear

1) 4 lock nuts, 2 for each shock

2) 4 washers, 2 for each shock

3) 2 plastic washers to go over the shock to prevent the bump stop sucking oil and ruining the shock, the washer allow air to move through.

4) 2 washers to go at the top, the lock nuts tighten over this.

5) 2 metal collars to replace the ones you removed, these are larger diameter so as to fit over the larger shock.

6) Adjusting instructions

7) Adjustment knob

8) Perches, the rear perches are designed with a groove to hold the circlip in, I believe earlier models had a ring like the fronts.

 

Removing the stock springs

Front

First you must remove the stock springs, the ones pictured aren't stock but the process is the same. First park the car, apply the handbrake, loosen wheel-nuts, jack the car up and remove the wheel. Place the car on jack stands.

Open the hood, remove the two top 14mm shock flange bolts. Remove the 14mm damper pinch bolt and the 17mm damper fork bolts as pictured. Remove the two 12mm brake line bolts which attach them to the shock.

Now force the damper fork down and slide it off the shock, pull the shock down and remove it from the car. Be careful not to damage the brake lines.

Rear

Remove the wheel, remove the 14mm bolt holding the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. Remove the plastic cover from inside the boot to reach the top two bolts, remove the bolts. To remove the shock you may have to force the LCA down.

 

Place the spring compressor on the springs and tighten. The springs I have didn't need to be compressed much at all, stock springs will take a while and will be very tight, be careful the compressors are hooked on correctly and that they don't come off. As usual, I don't accept any responsibility for personal or property damage.

Once you notice the spring is loose on the perch, use an allen key to hold the shock still as you loosen the 14mm nut. Remove the nut and damper mounting base. Remove the spring and carefully decompress it, removing the compressors. Remove the dust cap, washers and bump stop, this is a good time to trim the bump stops if you need to. You also need to reuse the brake cable brackets from the stock shocks, use some penetrating oil and give the bracket a solid tap with a hammer, it should slide right off. 

Below is a comparison showing what must be kept from the original shock. You need to keep the base, dust cap, both rubber parts from the base, the bracket and the bump stop.

 

Take you new shock and set the circlip to where you want it, I put mine on the lowest setting. A set of circlip pliers will help with this, I used a knife and a flat blade screwdriver but if you are doing this you have to be careful not to damage the circlip. Now place the ring over the circlip and make sure it holds it securely in place, place the perch over the top of the ring. For the rears the circlip just sits in the groove on the perch.

 

Use a hammer to tap the brake cable bracket back on the front shocks, it will be a tight squeeze and you may need to take some material off the inside of the bracket with a file. Alternatively you could use zip ties but I would recommend taking the time to put the bracket on.

The plastic split washers are there to prevent damage to the shock. If the shock compresses fully the bump stop may suck oil from it, the washers allow air to move between the shock and bump stop at full compression. Place one of these washers on each shock.

Place the bump stops back on, then one of the metal washers. The dust cap goes back on now, the Koni shocks are larger than stock so you will need to drill or file the hole in the dust cap from 10mm to 12mm. Now put the next washer on, followed by one of the rubbers you removed from the base. Throw away the old 10mm collar, the kit comes with a new one to fit over the Koni shock. Now install the last rubber part, the curved washer and the two locknuts.

Shock Replacement

Front

Place the top of the shock back into the holes and tighten the nuts loosely, put the shock back into the damper fork and align the damper pinch bolt groove. Replace the damper pinch bolt and tighten to 32 lb-ft. Replace the damper fork bolt and tighten to 47 lb-ft. Tighten the top bolts to 36 lb-ft.

Replace the wheel, lower the car and tighten the damper lock nuts to 22 lb-ft, you will need a longer socket for your torque wrench.

Rear

Place the bottom of the shock through the LCA and try to maneuver the top of it into the top holes, you may have to push the LCA down.  If the shock becomes stuck you may need to tap it with a rubber mallet. Replace the lower shock bolt and tighten to 40 lb-ft. Tighten the top two bolts to 36 lb-ft.

Replace the wheel, lower the car and tighten the damper lock nuts to 22 lb-ft, you will need a longer socket for your torque wrench.

 

The Koni come pre-set on a setting they feel is correct for the car. You can change this but you should count how many turns you deviate from the original setting.

 

 

This website has been gradually growing since I started it in early 2002. Originally I was simply documenting modifications and repairs to my car but I decided to publish it when I began to discover others were interested in the information. If you need help or have a how-to relating to Honda B series VTEC engines, or DA or DC2R Integras you can
email me.

While all care is taken to provide correct information, mistakes are occasionally made and I cannot be responsible for any damage that occurs to readers vehicles.