How to: Msd Blaster Coil Installation

Firstly, this upgrade is only recommended if your stock coil and wires aren't up to scratch or if you are going to do some reasonably serious mods. I decided to go ahead with it and got some new NGK-R plugs and NGK leads at the same time because I had a faulty no 3 lead, and the plugs needed changing.

 

For starters, it's a good plan to find a decent place to mount it, which is tougher than it sounds. The pic to the left shows where I put it,  I riveted it on to the battery holder. There may be another spot around your CAI if you have one. You will be limited by the length of your coil wire as to how far away you can go.

Ok, first remove the plug wires off the distributor cap, taking note of where each one goes.
Now you have to remove your distributor cap,  there's three screws, two up top and one down the bottom, once those are undone (they won't come out) carefully take the cap off keeping an eye on the rubber seal. You may need a new seal, I just used instant gasket.

Once the cap is off, you'll see the rotor, which goes around with the intake cam, above this is the old coil which you now have to remove. There are 4 screws holding the old coil in, with these removed it should slide in and out with the exception of two wires which are still connected. Take note of which of these wires is positive and which is negative, you'll need to SOLDER an extension on to each of these, long enough to reach to your coil mounting place. These wires connect to the positive and negative terminals of your blaster coil. I say SOLDER because this is your ignition system, you don't want to be taking your distributor cap off in the middle of nowhere because your crappy crimped or twisted wires came undone.

Right, if you went and bought an MSD dizzy cap, you can stick that back on and you're sweet,  run the wires out using one of the existing wire slots, and seal up the gap. Join the positive and negative wires up and attatch the coil wire, replace the spark plug wires in the correct order. Double check everything before you try it. If you like, you can use plastic wiring loom to protect your terminal wires like I did. Use insulation tape to cover your solders and prevent shorting.

 

If you decided to just modify your stock distributor cap, you can buy a special tip that will protrude from the cap and connect to the coil wire. The tip is essentially just a screw with a rounded brass nut and a long plastic washer, you could possibly find what you need at a hardware store if you knew what you are looking for.
Anyway, if you look inside the cap, you will see an electrode sticking out which used to make contact with the stock coil. You will need to remove this by drilling a hole of around 4mm diameter from the OUTSIDE IN. As you drill, the electrode will come out, you wont need it anymore. The screw should fit snugly in the hole and you will be able to attach the plastic washer on the outside of the cap using the brass nut. Hold it with pliers if you need to, it is important to get it tight or it will come undone.
Now apply some silicone compound over the head of the screw on the inside of the cap, make sure you don't leave any of it exposed. Allow to dry for an hour or so.
You can put it all back together now the same as I said above, tape over your solders so they can't touch and double check everything.

 

 

This website has been gradually growing since I started it in early 2002. Originally I was simply documenting modifications and repairs to my car but I decided to publish it when I began to discover others were interested in the information. If you need help or have a how-to relating to Honda B series VTEC engines, or DA or DC2R Integras you can
email me.

While all care is taken to provide correct information, mistakes are occasionally made and I cannot be responsible for any damage that occurs to readers vehicles.