How to: Set the Timing and Adjustiable Cam Gears

Please Note: I suggest you have a professional adjust your cam gears with the aid of a dyno, this is the only proper way to achieve results without destroying your engine

Adjusting cam gears

When upgrading camshafts to a more agressive pair, sometimes it is necessary to adjust the cam timing using adjustable cam gears. The cam gears I have are Skunk2 which have 6 bolts with allen key heads, I haven't experienced any slipping of the bolts like some brands with fewer bolts are known to do so I would recommend them.

You can download a B16A manual from here or here

To be able to dyno tune your adjustable cam gears without having to take the valve cover off after each run, you have to cut the side of the valve cover off.
If you have a dremel tool then it's pretty easy, you just use the tool to cut any shape you want and clean it up a bit afterward.
I wasn't blessed with such a tool so I took a hacksaw blade, wrapped a rag around it and started sawing. I found the best plan was to cut in a straight line and when it came to turning corners, use a drill with a bit that is slightly larger than the hacksaw blade. The drilling of holes will mean that you won't have to cut as much so I ended up drilling a lot of holes around the outside. Once you have the main part cut out, tidy it up with a file and wet&dry paper

If you haven't cut your valvecover you will have to remove it. First take of the spark plug cover and pull the spark plug wires out from the engine. Undo the eight bolts as shown in the pic on the right. Also remove the ground strap, valve cover vent hose and the throttle cable brackets. Lift the valve cover straight up, it might be a bit stuck but it'll eventually come up.
To be able to reach all of the cam gear bolts, it is best to remove the timing belt cover from the side by removing two 10mm bolts

 

With the cam gears exposed, you need to loosen all of the bolts around the gear you are going to adjust first and remove the top bolt so you can see the degree markings.
Now remove the round bung in the plastic splash guard, I found it just as easy to remove all of the plastic screws and pull back the splashguard. You will need a 19mm socket and an extension long enough to reach the crank pulley bolt.
Turn the engine clockwise or counterclockwise depending on what you want to gear to. If you keep your eye on the cam gear you will see it is moving while the cam is staying still, mine are set to +1 intake and -1 exhaust as you can see in the picture.
Once you have set one gear perfectly, tighten all of the bolts and begin the procedure on the other gear.
Once both gears are set, tighten all of the bolts firmly, but not too tight as this will strip the threads in the alloy gears.
With this done you can replace the timing belt cover and the valve cover and double check that everything is secured firmly

 

 

Remember to take the socket off the crank pulley and replace the splash guard

Setting Timing

Now with your cam gears set you will need to adjust your ignition timing, for this you will need a 12mm socket and ring spanner as well as a timing light. Set the timing with a warm engine idling around 700 RPM.
First you need to jump the service connector behind the passengers kick panel. This will stop the ECU from making timing adjustments as you try to change it. To do this just connect the two wires together using a paperclip or similar.
You also need to loosen the three 12mm Bolts holding your distributor on as you need to turn it to change the timing.
Finally connect the timing light to the + and - terminals on the battery and the inductive pickup clip to cylinder #1. (Far right spark plug wire.)

On you crank pulley there are three notches right next to each other, and one further away. The middle of the three notches should be red and the seperate one should be white, if this isn't the case then it may help to carefully put some paint on the notch to make it easier to see. The white notch represents TDC, when this is lined up with the timing pointer cylinder 1 is at top dead centre and the cam gears are aligned. (These may be different colours if a previous owner or mechanic has painted them. The important thing to remember is that stock timing is the middle of the three marks, 14 is colsest to the rear of the car and 18 is nearest the front. TDC is all by itself nearest the rear)

Of the three close notches, the one that is closest to the white mark represents 14 degrees (retarded), the middle red one is 16 degrees (stock timing) and the one furtherest away from the white mark is 18 degrees (advanced).

Start the engine and pull the trigger of the timing light, you will see a strobe light emmited. This light is firing every time the spark in cylinder 1 fires. Point the timing light down toward the crank pulley, and look along the timing pointer. If you want to set your timing at 16 degrees you will want to line the middle of the three marks up with the timing pointer. If the middle mark appears to be right at the end of the pointer then your timing is set.

If it doesn't line up or if you want to advance or retard the timing then you need to rotate the distributer back or forwards until it does line up. Rotating it forward (toward the rear of the car) will advance the timing and back will retard it.

It is a bit difficult to see but the pic below shows the three marks which are close together. I have used correction fluid to make the middle 16 degree (stock timing) mark easier to see, as you can see the 18 degree and 14 degree marks are on either side of it. The TDC mark is obsured by the alternator belt but you don't need it to set the timing.

Just look along the pointer as shown in the pic and align the 16 degree mark with the end of the pointer. ( if you want to run advanced timing use the 18 degree mark and the same for 14 degrees)

Once the mark on the crank pulley is perfectly aligned with the pointer, your timing is set and you need to tighten the three distributer bolts to 17 lb-ft Once this is done, check it is still set, if so you can remove the paperclip from the jumper and it's all done

 

Replace the splash guard, and the wheels.

 

 

This website has been gradually growing since I started it in early 2002. Originally I was simply documenting modifications and repairs to my car but I decided to publish it when I began to discover others were interested in the information. If you need help or have a how-to relating to Honda B series VTEC engines, or DA or DC2R Integras you can
email me.

While all care is taken to provide correct information, mistakes are occasionally made and I cannot be responsible for any damage that occurs to readers vehicles.